Angkor: six centuries of Khmer capitals

Angkor is not one temple but a landscape of successive capitals. Each king built anew, often a state temple at the centre of a new city, and the result is a sequence spread across the plain: the ninth-century brick shrines of Roluos to the south-east, Angkor Wat of the early twelfth century, the walled city of Angkor Thom with the Bayon at its centre, and dozens of temples in between. More than 100,000 people still live inside the protected area, in over a hundred historic settlements, according to UNESCO.

Two things surprise first-time visitors. One is scale: the distances between temples are measured in kilometres, and you will spend real time in a vehicle. The other is the crowd. Angkor Wat at sunrise, Ta Prohm in mid-morning and the Bayon at most times are busy. UNESCO itself notes that tourism, while an enormous economic potential, can also generate irreparable destruction. The cure is timing: the quiet windows are real, and predictable, and a guide who knows the park uses them.

Angkor was on the List of World Heritage in Danger from its inscription in 1992 until 2004, when international conservation work led to its removal. Several of the restoration teams that did that work are still active, and some temples you visit will have scaffolding.

November to February is the comfortable season and the busy one. March to May grows steadily hotter; April is the hardest month for long temple days. The wet season, from June to October, brings afternoon rain, green moats and fewer visitors, and is a reasonable time to go if you can plan around the showers.

Sambor Prei Kuk has its own ticket, USD 10. Phnom Kulen is ticketed separately. Check before you travel. Siem Reap has a wide range of hotels, and deluxe rooms here cost less than in Luang Prabang or Hoi An for a similar standard.